the website of Greg Stamer

Archive for the ‘Newfoundland2008’ Category

Finally! Internet Access

Posted by Greg on July 21, 2008

I’m in a public library in La Scie, a small fishing village at the tip of the Baie Verte Peninsula. It’s good to finally be off the long Northern Peninsula and moving East! Yesterday I crossed from the Southern tip of Bell Island, to Bai Verte, 90K of open water. The forecast was not great, calm seas until the afternoon and then headwinds. I got up at 4:30am and was on the water at 6:40. The sea was completely glass and I sprinted at 4.5 knots trying to get as many miles behind me while I could. Once the headwinds come up and your speed drops to 2.5 knots or less it takes forever to cover ground and it really wears you down. I was hoping that the forecast would be wrong but the headwinds started around 2:00pm and were howling by 5:00pm, with steep, choppy waves. After 16 hours I reached the tip of the peninsula just as the sun was setting. Unfortunately the two coves that looked so nice on my topo maps and GPS were completely unsuitable for landing – – steep rocky cliffs. It’s hard to describe the emotions you feel at this point. You are completely spent from a long crossing, it is getting dark and cold, you just want to get out of your kayak and stretch your legs, and now you have no idea how long it will take to find a landing. I took the safe route and backtracked a few miles to La Scie, since as a harbour I knew that I would at least find a place to haul out, and aids to navigation to guide me in.


Posted by derrick on July 20, 2008


N49 57.8 W55 36.17 La Scie Harbour. 90K. Open water crossing from Bell island to Baie Verte Peninsula. Crossing took 15 hours plus an extra hour to find a place to land. Glassy sea until afternoon then slugged it out with strong headwind.

movin’ on

Posted by derrick on July 19, 2008


N50 57.53 W55 50.93 Pilier Bay at Cape Rouge. 45K. Interviewed by local newspaper prior to launching. Crossed Hare Bay. Persistent headwinds reduced forward speed to 2.5knots or less. Camped close to sea caves & arches. Will explore them tomorrow.

Goose Cove

Posted by derrick on July 18, 2008

N51 18.3 W55 38.18 Goose Cove. 58K. Early fog burned off leaving blue skies but moderate headwinds. Many whales, also saw my first sunfish its tall fin flopping lazily from side to side. Aborted plans to cross Hare Bay due to strong headwinds & confused seas. Got off water just ahead of rain and thunderstorms. I knocked on a door asking permission to put up my tent on a grassy spot and ended up being hosted by Ed who treated me to a Cod dinner and Capt’n Morgans rum!


Posted by derrick on July 17, 2008

Enjoyed my day as a tourist. I recall the L’Anse aux Meadows site as being described as “desolate” but I found it strikingly beautiful. It reminds me a bit like Greenland, a green grassy plain surrounded by hills & the sea. Invited to a party with plenty of country music, beer,singing, dancing & laughter. These people certainly know how to enjoy life! Already looking forward to being on the water & pushing hard tomorrow.


Posted by derrick on July 16, 2008

N51 36.07 W55 32.24 L’Anse aux Meadows. 85K & poised to round the Northern peninsula. 13hrs on water. Dim fog until crossed Pistolet Bay then turned sunny. Windy with a lumpy sea. Beautiful crossing of Sacred Bay with setting sun painting the world crimson. Will relax as tourist tomorrow & explore Viking site. I have wanted to visit here since grade school.

Weather Day

Posted by derrick on July 14, 2008

Weather day. Wind blowing in right direction but howling at 40mph plus making even walking difficult at times. Most fishing boats stayed in
port today. Good to have shower & salt streaked clothing laundered. Still no cell coverage or internet access. Winds expected to drop tomorrow

green island cove

Posted by derrick on July 14, 2008
N51 23.0 W56 34.7 Green Island Cove. 51K. Fair winds but strong current slowed progress. Sleeping in huge fishing shed. ATVs buzzing outside.


Posted by derrick on July 13, 2008

N51 03.0 W56 58.3 Dog Cove. 60K. Beautiful warm sunny day light winds. GPS & compass didn’t jive today. Later found that cans of salmon under deck (below compass) were the culprit. Labrador coast in sight! Thunderstorms off Labrador are booming in the distance. Close encounter with Fin whale. Camped in lovely meadow but mosquitoes out in force.


Posted by derrick on July 12, 2008

N50 43.0 W57 22.1 Port au Choix on Pointe Riche Peninsula. 60K. Strong winds from SW building to F7. I had my hands full at  Pointe Riche with an almost fully developed sea with large 8 to 10 foot rollers. Big stuff but waves not feeling bottom so few breakers but kayak decks often awash. Camp in protected harbor near Phillip’s Garden a 2400 year old Paleo Eskimo site.