A: Hello Setsuko,

Many classic British sea kayaks have a strong West Greenland influence. While I like the control afforded by hard chines, the overall shape of the kayak is much more important than just hard-chined or round bilged, when it comes to tracking, weathercocking and broaching.

Greenland kayaks, even from the same general area, can behave very differently, so it’s impossible to generalize. I have paddled kayaks in West Greenland, built in the same town, that weathercocked viciously and others that tracked strongly. I find that the kayaks that exhibit the most weathercocking often have very low volume and very “pinched” ends (when viewed from above), combined with strong rocker. While this often gives superb maneuverability (and a certain aesthetic appeal), it can make the kayak quick to weathercock/broach.

Weathercocking is the tendency of most kayaks to turn into the wind when on-the-move. It’s especially pronounced in beam and rear quartering seas.

To help visualize why this happens place your kayak on a sandy beach and create a small mound of sand on either side of the bow to emulate the bow wave (high pressure) that forms when you are moving forward (imagine a tug boat plowing through the water).  Acting as the wind, if you now push on one side of the kayak, the bow resists movement but the stern has much less resistance and slides away from you.  The result is that the kayak pivots near the bow and the stern “blows downwind”.  Note that weathercocking only happens when you are moving forward (or reverse). If you aren’t paddling no bow wave/pressure is generated and  your entire kayak is blown sideways.

The reason that you probably haven’t seen anything specifically for G-style technique for dealing with wind is that, except for using paddle extension, the techniques used are virtually identical to what is taught in “mainstream” kayaking.  The only major difference is that I have never seen bow-rudder strokes used in Greenland and my informants have said they were not commonly used. Perhaps they are/were used , if anyone knows, please drop me a line.

Other than using a skeg or rudder (to help anchor the stern),  a very effective way to deal with weathercocking is to edge the kayak into the wind and apply a stern draw or sweep.  Edging the kayak into the wind helps to anchor the stern and creates an asymmetric (curved) underwater hull shape that helps the kayak to turn away from the wind.

To edge the kayak it’s often advised that you ”hang a knee” (lift the opposite knee). For example, if the wind is coming from your left, you lift your right knee and hip (putting more pressure on your left butt cheek) and edge the kayak to the left. While this works,  due to the active use of your hips/legs to edge the kayak, it makes it difficult to pump your legs for power, and can become uncomfortable if held for long periods.

Greenland competition veteran Pavia Lumholt (Qajaq Nuuk/Qajaq København), taught me a simpler technique; to just shift your butt laterally, a very small amount in the seat to windward, to lean the hull.  This technique doesn’t inhibit your leg drive and is much more comfortable. Please note that this may not work if you use thick hip pads at the sides of the seat.  Greenland-style paddlers don’t usually use thick hip pads, because they prevent you from getting your body weight low to the water during techniques such as side-sculling, static braces and rolling.

Now that your kayak is edged into the wind, you can perform a strong sweep or a stern draw on the windward side. I often prefer a stern draw. The logic is that since it’s the stern of your kayak that is “loose” (moving downwind) and the bow is ensconced in high pressure, it makes more sense to control the stern rather than fight the bow. To perform the draw, take a forward stroke on the windward side, but at the point where you would normally extract the paddle, slice the blade slightly away from you, drop your elbow to your hip and push your top hand gently away from you. You don’t need to draw the blade right up to the hull, finish with about a foot of room.  The effect will be to draw the stern and correct your course.  If you prefer to perform a sweep instead, then you may wish to maximize your effort in the latter part of the stroke, where it functions similar to a draw.

You can also perform a sliding stroke on the windward side, or simply hold the paddle so that it is longer to windward.  A stern rudder works too, but will cost you speed.  For more information on this and other directional strokes I highly recommend Nigel Foster’s Sea Kayaking Series (Volume 3 deals with Directional Control including turning in the wind).

Note the tied-on skegs in these Greenland kayaks (2000 Annual Kayaking Championship Photo by Greg Stamer).

Most kayaks in Greenland have tied-on skegs to aid directional control by adding pressure to the stern. This was originally done for hunting, to prevent the kayak from
veering off, when the paddle was lifted from the water, while a gun was retrieved from a waterproof bag. Most kayaks used today for sport in Greenland, including “racing kayaks”, have skegs (see photo above).  Loading more gear in the stern can also help (see illustration). A downside of this method is that if the wind conditions change, your stern heavy trim  might become a liability.  Because of this I usually strive for a balanced gear load, with the heavier items closer to the cockpit.

So far this discussion has centered around weathercocking, however if you are surfing a breaking wave near shore, or a large swell, you might experiencing broaching. What happens is that the bow of the kayak buries, the stern continues to move forward,  and the kayak quickly, sometimes violently, turns broadside to the wave.  This is a common cause of capsizing.  To help prevent broaching you can lean toward the wave, rotate your torso away from the wave, and place a stern rudder on the side of the kayak opposite from the wave. This is a “diagonal run” and lets you achieve surfing speeds much faster than going straight down-wave.  Eventually however, if you don’t pull-off the wave, and the wave continues to steepen, the kayak will broach.  It’s often best to initiate this action, and broach in control, rather than be surprised and have to react. Lean into the wave and now brace into it (low brace works and is safer for your shoulder). This will let you “bongo-slide” sideways in control. You can move the paddle toward the bow or stern to adjust your course. Please note that this technique can be can be hazardous to swimmers and anyone in your path as you are cutting a six meter swath toward the shore. If you lean away from the wave at any point you will capsize instantly.

This topic is much deeper than I can cover in this short post, to do it justice.  Seek out additional information in books and on-line, and find good instruction, particularly if you are seeking the challenges of the surf zone.

Many thanks to Duncan at Solent Sea Kayaking for the use of the illustrations in this post.

A: JP, I have an ONNO carbon foot bar (foot plate) mounted in my NDK Greenlander Pro and love it.  For those who aren’t familiar with it, the ONNO foot bar is a very lightweight, wide carbon plate that mounts to your existing Yakima pedals (stock installation is with screws).  The hardware is provided to modify your current Yakima aluminum rails so that they are parallel so that the solid foot plate can be adjusted fore/aft without binding.

I have size 10 feet and have just enough room to bring feet and knees to a centered position in the keyhole cockpit.  There isn’t a lot of clearance,  my knees can fit only when they are very close together, about an inch apart. For more clearance you could modify the thigh hooks (grind them away a bit).  In this centered, racing-style position, I can generate more torso-rotation than in the “splayed-out” position.

The ONNO foot bar is much more comfortable than the small , non-ergonomic Yakima pedals (aka postage stamps).  Try a comfortable foot bar/foot plate and you’re spoiled for life.  You won’t want to use regular Yakima pedals again. I’m still thinking about making a wooden wedge for each Yakima pedal, cut at 60 degrees on one face, to provide an angled mounting surface for the ONNO foot bar.  That would be heaven. Currently I have the foot bar held to the pedals with heavy duty Velcro and tethered with an extremely short string on one side to prevent loss in surf.   I keep my water bladders in front of my feet, so I’m still trying to devise the best way to install the ONNO foot bar so that I can quickly swing it out of the way and get access.

As with any modification to the cockpit, ensure that it doesn’t impede your ability to exit the kayak.  One potential hazard of any full-width foot bar is the danger of getting your feet jammed under it and entrapped. This could happen in a forceful collision, such as surfing and pile-driving your bow into the bottom.  Whether or not this is an issue depends on the width of the foot bar, your footwear, and the volume/shape of your kayak.  If entrapment is a possibility, the smart solution is to devise a fail-safe mechanism and mount your foot bar so that it can swing backward and release should you pull back on it.

A: Donna, Thanks for the complement. All of the kayaking images that I have taken in the last few years have been with the new breed of “waterproof/shockproof” point and shoot digital cameras.  These cameras don’t offer quite the image sharpness and features of more “professional” cameras, but their strength is that you can grab them in an instant and capture images that would go missed with a much bulkier camera  or a camera that must be retrieved from a dry box.  Most of the images for my Sea Kayaker magazine articles were taken with a waterproof digital, so very good results are possible.

I have used the Olympus Stylus series (e.g. Stylus 1030 SW) extensively, but lately I have been using a new Panasonic Lumix DMC-TS3.  Both are great cameras.  The Olympus has a sliding closure that covers the lens after you turn off the camera. I have a love-hate relationship with this feature. Usually it works great, and keeps the lens clean and dry, however if you do manage to get water behind it, it continues to smear water on the lens every-time you turn on the camera, even if you dry the lens.

The Panasonic doesn’t feel quite as rugged as the Olympus, but time will tell. My reason for choosing the Lumix this time around was image quality and high-definition video capability.  The Lumix (like some other models) also includes a built-in GPS, compass, altimeter and barometer that might be useful for some applications, I can live without this, but it might prove “nice to have”.

There are other good brands in this camera class, and the features and models change constantly, so a Google search is always in order when it comes time to buy.

I keep my camera secured by a short tether to a “D” ring in my PFD pocket. While I used to keep my camera in the PFD pocket, day-after-day soaking in a wet, salty pocket can cause corrosion problems and a dirty lens. Some of the manufacturers insist that you dunk these cameras in fresh water after every use, but that isn’t always practical on an extended trip. My Olympus cameras (rarely rinsed) have had only minor corrosion issues (although the black body “paint” and the lens hood came-off). I have heard some concerns about corrosion with the Lumix, so I at least attempt to give it a quick freshwater rinse, daily.  To avoid the “salty pocket” issue, I now put the camera in the pocket only when launching and landing from the beach to keep it secure. Once out of the surf-zone I tuck the tethered camera behind the front panel of my PFD where it hangs by the tether and stays relatively dry and can still be retrieved quickly.

Salt and water spots on the lens are always an issue. It can be very disappointing to review an entire day’s images only to see them all spoiled by a dirty lens.  On the water you can give the lens a rinse from your water bottle, and then blow-off as much water as possible. I keep a lens cloth in a small dry container, close at hand for drying, but cleaning and drying the lens simply isn’t possible in all conditions.

In very cold conditions you can have condensation/fogging issues if you allow the camera to become toasty warm and then take it outside. To prevent these issues I try to avoid sudden extremes in temperature.

I have acquired both a wing (Onno) and a GP (Novorca) in the last year and have been learning both. At 4.2 kts, my traveling speed, the GP feels more efficient, but I can go at least 0.2 kts faster with the wing.  Jerry

A: Jerry,  Although I realize that you said non-racing situations, let me use that as an example, first, as it helps to clarify the issue.

To generalize, a racer is often trying to maximize speed over distance usually with an extremely light, unladen kayak. A sea kayaker is often trying the maximize the number of “miles per Snicker’s bar”, often with a heavy or  gear-laden kayak, day after day. These are related, but are very different things and need to be viewed separately.

In a racing situation — very light kayak, 10 miles or less, using a very high stroke, I’m about 1.5 – 2 minutes per mile faster with my wing than with a GP.  That’s not much for touring but is an eternity for racing. Unfortunately this is not a perfect test since my current “go-fast” kayaks have a fairly high foredeck that makes it difficult to fully bury the blades of my GP at the catch. I have won local races with a GP over wings, but if I want my best time I use a wing.

You don’t get something for nothing. The speed comes with a price.

With a wing (or other “Euro” paddle) you hold the paddle such that if you were to place the center of the shaft on your head, your elbows make a 90 degree or slightly less, bend. To achieve a vertical stroke you must lift your arms fairly high, and that’s the rub. Even if you have the lightest–most expensive paddle available, mere ounces, you are still lifting many pounds on each stroke — the weight of your arms. That’s not to say that you shouldn’t use a light paddle (I buy the lightest I can afford) but you also have to understand the role of your technique in the equation.

With a GP, your hands are much closer together. You do need to ensure that your paddle shaft is long enough to  generate good power (racers in Greenland often use 22″ or longer paddle-shafts for this reason), but the closer hand position allows you to use a high vertical stroke, without having to lift your hands very high. Unlike the high “chicken wing” paddle lift of the wing, your hands stay much lower, and you lift less arm-weight per stroke. I’m convinced that this is the reason my shoulders feel much better after many miles with a GP, than a wing.

For long-distances, even many surf ski racers lower their arm position, and don’t maintain the very high vertical stroke that is common for shorter courses and K1 sprinters.  Holding the paddle lower offers more stability in chaotic seas and is easier on your shoulders (less arm lift),  but the tradeoff is that you lose a touch of speed.  Sometimes stability is more important than raw speed. To paraphrase Oscar Chalupky, no one is very fast when they are upside down.

Wing or GP? For touring it’s really a matter of preference — what stokes your passion, what feels better to you, and what works for you.  In a heavily loaded kayak, and for long distances, I prefer a GP — it’s much easier on my body.  A wide blade is not an advantage when you have a heavy load, are towing someone, and in similar situations. That said, wings are used by some kayakers on long expeditions with laden kayaks, so you will need to experiment to find the best choice for you.  If you do choose a wing for a loaded touring kayak, I recommend that you experiment with a small blade, rather than the midsize or large blades that are popular for racing.

For playing — blending strokes, rolling, linking strokes, I love the feeling and symmetry of a GP — it feels to me like dancing on the water. I don’t get this feeling with a wing.  A wing is more one-dimensional, designed for the forward stroke, and while that is what we do most of the time, it might not always match how you play. A wing is not nearly as versatile as a GP for blending strokes although you can make it work if you are dedicated.  For example, to scull with a wing, I have seen some paddlers turn the blade over, to use the back of the paddle. Awkward, maybe, when compared to a GP, but it works.

I have set speed records around Iceland and Newfoundland using a GP. Around Iceland my expedition partner used a wing. I was faster in some conditions and my partner was faster in others.  The point is that the paddle type was not the critical factor. For some ultra-long-distance events, often the goal is to simply “keep the kayak moving” and success is more a function of mental toughness, gruesomely long hours in the kayak, smart trip planning, an efficient route and ability to paddle in conditions rather than simply an impressive top speed.

To use a GP effectively I strongly recommend that you use the canted blade technique, where you allow the top edge of the blade to tilt forward (matching the angle of your palm when your wrist is held in a neutral position).  The canted blade stroke buries the blade quickly, helps to eliminate flutter and ventilation and gives a much stronger feeling of power. Chris Cunningham of Sea Kayaker magazine wrote that using this technique felt as if it transformed his GP into a wing paddle. Interestingly enough, many practitioners of wing paddles feel right at home with a GP, and many of the same stroke elements work quite well. For more information, please see the Qajaq USA technique page.

In the end, you might view a wing and a GP as complementary, depending on what you want to do, rather than as one type being “better” than the other. Think of a golfer deciding between a driver and a 2-iron, for instance. It’s a matter of the selecting the right tool for the job. For touring, try them both.  If you continue to use both a GP and a wing they will both teach you something and make you a better paddler.

Because the kayak is already moving I find myself unwinding – irresistibly! ;-(  before catch. Apart from visualizing spearing a salmon, do you have other advice, tips, tricks, dry/ wet exercises etc to catch before unwinding?

A: When I do video analysis of students a common error is unwinding before the catch, or in other words, starting to apply power before the paddle is completely buried. This is a common power leak.

If you are “pulling” before the paddle is planted, not only is your stroke shortened (giving you less time to generate power), but the catch is often poor too (drawing air into the water — ventilation, and creating turbulence and making noise — “plop!”).

How short is a “model” stroke? For a wing you should be starting your exit when the blade reaches your knees and the blade should exit when your hand reaches your hip.  Since the stroke is so short, you can’t afford to waste any of it. A Greenland paddle also exits when your hand is at your hip, but the blades are long, and will exit behind you.

The long blades of a Greenland paddle mean that your catch needs to be quick and precise, otherwise the stroke will be almost over before you have fully buried the blade, especially if you prefer a vertical stroke for speed.

Trying to “unlearn” existing muscle memory can be frustrating, but it can be done, so be persistent. When learning a new “choreography”, start slowly and deliberately until if feels natural. Being aware of what you are doing is half the battle. When you find yourself falling back into old habits (and you will), just bring your new-found awareness back to your technique, or go back to the drills.

Sequencing Drill — Wind-up and Catch: (kayak moving very slowly or stationary):

• Fully wind up (spear the salmon position)
• Quickly bury the paddle blade into the water  ONLY (no other movement)
• Remove the paddle, fully wind-up and perform on the opposite side.

Wind-up & Pause Drill: (kayak can be moving at speed)

• Fully wind up (spear the salmon position)
• PAUSE FOR A FULL SECOND (in the air)
• Plant the paddle blade completely into the water
• Feel your stroke-side foot engage the footbrace and apply power.

These drills will help isolate each movement, improve your catch, prevent applying power too soon, and are also good for working on your balance.  Even on a normal stroke when I’m not doing a drill, I pause very briefly after winding up to prepare for a good catch.

A kayak ergometer is a very useful tool for working on these drills. You can perform them either very slowly or at speed, without worry about balancing and capsizing.

When you plant the paddle, do so fully. Wrap a piece of bright tape around the shaft where it meets the blade (Euro or Wing). You should bury the paddle to this tape mark, and no more, no less. Strive to keep the blade at this depth throughout your stroke.  For a Greenland paddle you plant the blade almost up to the pinky finger of your pulling (lower) hand.
You can help keep the paddle at a constant depth by allowing the paddle to flare naturally away from the hull during the stroke, while maintaining good posture. This is only possible if your mechanics are sound and the paddle length is correct. Too long a paddle makes it easier to get the blade in the water for the catch, but the paddle may go too deep at the exit.  A paddle that is too short is just the opposite.

The website below has some good coaching tips, excellent images of the different phases of a stroke, and some additional drills that you might wish to try: http://members.westnet.com.au/dshunter/Good%20Technique.htm

My latest DIY project was to create a full footboard to replace the skimpy original on my K1 (right).

This was a  relatively quick and inexpensive project.  First task was to make a cardboard pattern to determine the size and fit.  For the construction I used 1/2″ (12.7mm) thick birch plywood, but it’s stronger than it needs to be, 3/8″ (9.5mm)  thickness would be fine, and would save a little weight.

The only challenging part of the operation was to cut the slot for the tiller bar (rudder control) as this needs to be cut at the same angle as the slope of the footboard or the tiller will stick. My approach was to drill two holes at each end of the slot using an old-fashioned bit-brace (hand drill) with a bit the same diameter as the intended slot. To get the angle right, I placed a sliding T bevel set at 60 degrees on the stock and just eyeballed it as I drilled. A sabre saw with an adjustable base (set to 60 degrees) made quick work of cutting the waste from the slot.

Why a 60 degree angle? Both my SpeedStroke erg (indoor kayak trainer)  and Epic V12 ski have 60 degree footboards and  they’re very comfortable. I chose the same angle for training consistency, when moving from erg to boat to boat. Obviously a vertical plate is not ergonomic (although vertical bulkheads are sometimes used as a footrest by sea kayakers).  Angles of 45 degrees or less may result in your feet sliding up the footboard under pressure. In the end it’s up to your personal preference.

To improve traction, I originally covered the footboard with non-slip tape  (intended for stairs) found at most hardware stores. It works but looks and feels like sandpaper and can be too abrasive against wet, bare feet. The image above shows the footboard covered with this material.  I replaced it with Hydro-turf traction pad strips – grippy, firm, and comfortable — a big improvement.

Now to finally replace that ratty foot-strap. After looking at various pull-bars I decided on the Nelo Carbon Pull-bar.  It’s light, ergonomic and highly adjustable (depth and angle). It arrived in less than a week from Portugal.

The original footrest wasn’t horrible, at least it had a much larger surface area than the tiny Yakima-style pegs that most sea kayakers put-up with, and the plate allowed micro-adjustments to the angle for comfort.  I prefer to push with my stroke side heel, rather than the balls of my feet, so I find a full footboard to be not only more comfortable but permits a more efficient stroke as well.

[Warning - vaguely related rant commencing]
What is amazing to me is that racing kayaks have, by far, the best ergonomics, even though some races are finished in less than two minutes! Sea kayaks generally have poor ergonomics even though sea kayakers are often in their boats for many hours.  The longest that I have been in a kayak was 22 grueling hours during one very long crossing in Iceland when the weather didn’t cooperate. Change will have to come through sea kayakers demanding better ergonomics.  Ironically, the original skin-on-frame kayaks usually offer very good foot support, with a deck beam that gives full-width support for the balls of your feet, and a rib placement just forward of your heel to provide a comfortable angle.
[Sermon over. OK, I feel better now...]

So how did the footboard upgrade work? I’m happy to report that it transformed my entire sense of security and control in the K1.  Although I still have the occasional misstep and resulting brace, the K1 has been largely tamed, and I can now paddle it aggressively, instead of  defensively.  The pull bar makes a huge difference.  It gives you something solid to help control the kayak, to aid  balance,  and enables some sense of being a part of the kayak (rather than just loosely sitting on top of it).  I’m guessing that with time and practice it won’t be as necessary. It’s probably just like rolling when at first you need a very snug, secure fit, in order to transmit your meager attempts to the kayak, and later on you can roll almost anything so long as you don’t fall out of it first. As a safety note, with any gear that you add to your kayak, ensure that it doesn’t affect your ability to exit the kayak in case of a capsize.

A drawback of the pull bar is that it restricts lateral movement with your feet, so the tiller (rudder) can only accept small corrections.  More than once I have found myself heading straight toward a buoy or hazard, with the tiller hard over, shouting , ”Turn Dammit, Turn!”,  imploring the kayak to turn. Eventually the kayak listens and responds but not with any haste.  This K1 has a  tiny rudder, designed for minute course corrections (and low drag), and response is much more sluggish as compared to the rudder on my V12 surfski.  For a more rapid turn you can lean the kayak and pull a foot out of the pull-strap to give the tiller more room to move, but I’d rather keep my feet in the pull-bar, if possible.

Technique

Not surprisingly there are some strong differences of opinion on using a pull-bar or foot-strap. Some coaches teach that you use the pull-bar to actively push with one leg and pull-up on the bar with the other. Other coaches state that this is counterproductive and that you push strongly with the heel of the stroke-side foot, and the pull-bar simply provides support to aid balance as your non-stroke-side knee rises and the non-stroke-side foot lifts upward into the bar, helping to smooth out any wobbles. I will explore this more in-depth in the future, along with some ideas from Hungarian coach Imre Kemecsey.

Here’s another blog post on pull-pars that you might find informative.

A: Tom, thanks for the question.

Before going into specific techniques, following are some general points to ponder. There is a lot of condensed information here, you may have to read this more than once.

1. Move the boat through the water, not the paddle. This is a huge mental change for most paddlers. Think of your paddle as an anchor that you plant into solid ground and then lever your boat forward using strong legwork and body rotation. When done properly you should be able to feel your paddle “load-up” with tension – it feels somewhat like you are suspended from the paddle, like hanging from a bar.
2. Chain reaction — your stroke is only as good as the weakest link. Like a golf swing or a dance step, once you get off track it’s all downhill from there. The catch (inserting the blade in the water) is perhaps the most important phase. If it is poor, so will the remainder of your stroke. You need to bury the paddle blade completely — up to your lower hand with a GP.  This must happen quickly and cleanly (no noise, air or splash) BEFORE you begin to unwind your body.
3. Don’t dally at the catch.  Each paddle stroke is  fairly short. If your catch is poor your stroke can be almost over before your paddle blade has even gotten fully wet . This is a common error and results in a loss of power. As a mental aid, imagine that there is a tasty fish at your bow, and “spear the salmon” as your paddle enters the water. In other words thrust the paddle quickly into the water with both hands. This will feel abrupt and choppy at first, but smooths out over time. Keep your wrists relaxed to extend your reach.
4. Eliminate the “scratch”.  Ventilation happens when you drag air into the water at the catch. With a GP it’s announced by a “scratching” noise, similar to the sound of dragging your fingernails over rough nylon fabric. This prevents a strong connection between the paddle and water. Fix this by “spearing the salmon” and ensuring that the paddle blade is  buried before you add power. In some cases ventilation can also be caused by having a fat, blocky paddle tip. If that is the case thin it down so that it is “sharpened” to the same radius as the blade edges. A good catch is silent; a poor catch makes a loud “plop”.  Technique can help here too, the canted blade technique with a GP can make a big difference (more on this below).
5. Push the kayak forward with your legs. Racers push hard with the heel of their stroke-side foot.  The stroke-side leg extends, and the opposite knee rises — a mini bicycling effect. This is what powers your body rotation. When you do this correctly if feels like you are moving the kayak with the power of your legs hips and core, not your arms.  Imagine that you are trying to open a heavy, rusty-hinged church door. Plant your feet firmly and rotate your torso. Imagine that your arms are simply ropes (linkages) between your shoulder joint and the door handle.
   Note – In an ultra low-volume skin-on-frame (SOF) kayak you may feel the most force on the opposite knee/thigh as it rises against the low masik (curved beam above your thighs), rather than your stroke-side leg. If that’s the case, make this the foundation of your stroke.
6. Try the penguin walk. To understand how your hips help to drive your kayak forward, sit on the floor with your feet straight out in front of you and move forward by “walking” your pelvis forward (thrusting one leg forward at a time) akin to the way a penguin walks. This simple drill can greatly increase your understanding of what you’re trying to do with your lower body.
7. Full body rotation. Many kayakers only move their shoulders and think they are really rotating. A powerful torso rotation is one that starts all the way down to your butt on the seat. A racing kayak is setup to emphasize torso rotation and leg drive –feet are centered together on a large, comfortably angled footrest and the cockpit is open to allow leg action. Some racing kayaks even have a rotating seat pan (like a turntable) to fully exploit this.  Note that this position maximizes rotation but minimizes stability and the ability to brace. Realize that most touring kayaks are maximized for stabilty with your feet and knees splayed out toward the sides.  Ideally your kayak will allow for both positions to have the best of both worlds.  Understand these different positions and exploit both of them if your kayak allows for it. If I cannot rotate fully, then I will use techniques such as the “crunch technique” to compensate (more on this later).
8. Use your big muscle groups. Your leg, back and abdominal muscles are larger and stronger than your arms. While you can’t move them as fast in a very short sprint, they don’t tire as easily.
9. Bent arms can be a power leak.  For a wing-style stroke your arms shouldn’t bend more than 90 degrees, and most of this bend happens as the blade exits the water.  A good image by Imre Kemecsey (Hungarian K1 coach) is to imagine that you have a sheet of saran wrap taped from the paddle shaft to the outside of your arms. Try to paddle without creasing this membrane. You don’t want to be stiff like Frankenstein, but you don’t want bend your arms too much either.  If you tend to bend your lower arm as soon as the paddle enters the water, you are “arm paddling”, rather than using your core, legs and body rotation.
10. Keep the stroke out in front of you.  I see many kayakers using a GP where their paddle is held very close to their chest. While this can be a low-energy way to paddle it results in a weak stroke. Imagine that you have a beach-ball in your lap and shift your entire stroke more forward.
11. Exit when your hand reaches your hip. Remove the paddle blade from the water when your lower hand reaches your hip (not the paddle tip). With a GP this means that the blade tip will be well behind you when you exit because the blades are long.
12. Paddle attributes. Paddle dimensions must fit you, your kayak, and the conditions you are kayaking in.  Too long or too short will require technique or postural compensations. A GP with sharper edges and tip is preferred by many for increased power (but may be more uncomfortable to hold and is more prone to damage).
13. Posture Matters. You cannot rotate your torso effectively if you are not sitting tall (a slight forward lean is OK).  I see many kayakers using a GP that is too short for them. To compensate they often slump forward in attempt to catch the water, resulting in a weak stroke.  Your shoulders also function much better when you use good posture. Try this drill:  while sitting up straight, lift your arms over your head as high as they will go. Now try the same while you slump forward. The difference is striking.  Some therapists believe that slumping forward might cause shoulder impingement, so it not only looks bad, it costs you power, and possibly shoulder health.

Technique

There are many technique variations for using a GP.  To over-generalize you can lump them into two main stroke variants – the “crunch stroke” (as popularized by Maligiaq Padilla) and the “wing stroke” (very similar to a typical stroke using a wing paddle).

Note that both of the following techniques are often (but not always) performed using a canted blade with a GP. While this may sound contrived and uncomfortable it is a very natural way to hold the paddle. When you hold a Greenland paddle you don’t place all of your fingers on the paddle shaft. Instead you place only the thumb and forefinger of each hand on the shaft, with your other fingers draped over the roots of the blades. When you hold the paddle this way the blades will naturally tilt forward because the palm of your hand is tilted forward when your wrist is straight and relaxed.  For a visual reference, hold your arm out in front of you and open your hand, with your wrist straight. The paddle will have the same angle as your palm.

Crunch Stroke

The crunch stroke is a very popular technique in Greenland. This technique predates Maligiaq, but he has been instrumental in popularizing it outside of Greenland (he learned it from his Grandfather). Visually there is little torso rotation, but torso rotation does play a key role.  What dominates is a strong abdominal crunch, and a strong leg work (like the penguin-walk drill discussed above).  You drive the kayak forward by this “crunch” (large muscle groups) your legs working against the masik (curved deck beam), while your upper shoulder drives your top hand downward toward the deck.  Arms remain bent.  The arms often do not cross the center line of the kayak. This is not “arm paddling” — big muscles drive the kayak.  Remember doing sit-ups in gym-class while someone held your legs? That’s what it feels like.  Don’t allow the kayak to bounce as a result of this motion or it will only slow you down. Note that by pushing the upper hand down, the stroke is shortened and the working paddle blade rises. While this is considered taboo for a “Euro” paddle or wing, it works well with a Greenland paddle because the canted blade generates forward thrust as it is lifted upward.

Often a lot of upper body/shoulder power is used. When training, Maligiaq does upward to 500 pushups a day. I think that part of his success with this technique is due to his impressive strength and ability to maintain a high stroke rate.  I often use this stroke for a change of pace but I am faster with “torso rotation” techniques. Your experience may diffier.

For more information view John Heath’s article for Sea Kayaker Magazine,  and my article for Anorak magazine (Greenland Paddling from the Source). For more detail, I have an entire chapter devoted to this stroke, ‘Using Greenland Paddles”, in the book Eastern Arctic Kayaks.
Please see the video clips of Maligiaq Padilla’s stroke on the Qajaq USA website. I also explain this stroke in  volume 5 of Nigel Foster’s Sea Kayaking Series DVD.

Canted Wing-Stroke

A lateral wing-type stroke (blade sweeping away from the bow, rather than straight back) is not new. A GP is the “original wing paddle”. In some areas of Greenland that I visited children were taught to allow the paddle to flare away from the hull, following the bow waves. This technique (and wing paddles) dominates competitive kayaking.  The shape of the stroke is very natural if you plant the blade near the bow and then drive the paddle with body rotation. This will cause the blade to flare away from the hull so that it will be approximately 12-18” away from the hull at the exit.  Your upper (“pushing”) hand will cross well over the centerline of the kayak deck on each stroke from torso rotation.  An excellent reference is the forward stroke video by Greg Barton and Oscar Chalupsky.   Although this video is produced for use with a conventional wing paddle, most of the information applies to using a GP as well, the main difference that your hands are held much closer with a GP and when using a GP your elbows point downwards (you don’t lift your elbows into a  high “chicken wing” with a GP). 

To understand the difference in how you hold a GP as compared to a wing, and how this affects the stroke, please see my thoughts on “Greenland Paddle / Wing Paddle“.

A: Dave,  For full disclosure, I’m a Snapdragon team paddler but I bought Snapdragon before I was sponsored, they make a great product.

I have multiple skirts that I choose depending on my activity/conditions.  The most bombproof skirts are full neoprene, they are dry but also warm (not an advantage in the Florida heat).

If your priority is a solid seal (good for surf, rolling practice, rough water play, etc), then I recommend the Ocean Tour EXP Reinforced skirt;  this neoprene skirt is dry and tough enough for heavy surf zones. If I had to pick only one skirt, it would be this one. I used this skirt for paddling around Iceland where it withstood the nasty dumping waves of the South Coast without imploding. It works equally as well with the dumpers we have at Canaveral on the East coast.  If you don’t need the heavy-duty rim guard and other extreme durability features then the Ocean Trek is a good choice, it’s just as dry.

For touring in the Florida heat and in areas where heavy surf play is not expected, I prefer a skirt that can be adjusted for ventilation.  I recommend the Glacier EXP Breathable Reinforced skirt. This skirt has an adjustable, breathable top tube (cooler in the Florida heat), and a neoprene deck (stays in place). I keep the top tube slightly loose and snug it down when conditions deteriorate.  A fabric tunnel will not seal quite as effectively as neoprene for rolling practice but will be fine for the occasional roll.  I find an adjustable top tube is also an advantage on trips lasting many days or months to help prevent skin irritations.  This skirt was my choice on my Newfoundland circumnavigation.

For warm-weather paddlers in less demanding conditions, there are other options, including all nylon skirts.  These are cooler, making them nice for touring, but aren’t as secure on the cockpit rim and might “pop” if you roll.

While not a Snapdragon product, if you get heavy into Greenland rolling, consider a Brooks tuilik (traditional jacket/skirt combo). This is a very warm garment that is comfortable for Florida in Winter for rolling practice, however it’s much too hot to use in Florida for touring.  A tuilik offers extreme freedom of movement.

You can find my new Ask Greg page among the options at the top of the screen. Please keep it in mind the next time you have a question or want to browse.

I look forward to helping you with any kayaking questions you might have.

A: Hello “Confused”. Greenland paddle sizing is usually done using anthropometric measurements. This type of measurement takes into account body sizing, and can be done directly, without a tape measure.

For the measurements below, an “armspan” refers to the full reach of your outstretched arms, from the extended fingertips of one hand, to the other.

• The most commonly-used method for touring is one armspan , plus a cubit (the distance from your elbow to your extended fingertips).
• For competition rolling, and kayaking in very windy areas, you may want a slightly shorter paddle — a common length is an armspan plus the distance from your wrist to your fingertips. A shorter paddle is easier to maneuver both underwater and in a strong wind.
• For a very short paddle used with a sliding stroke (often called a “storm paddle”), the length is short  -  one armspan, with the loom only two or three fists wide.

The key is to treat these guidelines as a ballpark estimate ONLY and experiment freely. Your ideal paddle may be several inches longer or shorter than these guidelines  There is no “official/traditional” formula that will be perfect for all users. Don’t get too caught up in what is the “proper” or traditional sizing or what your friends use. By all means try many different sizes but what is important is that the paddle fits you, accommodates the dimensions of your kayak, and the type of paddling that you do.

Paddle length is affected by many things, including your torso height, arm length, kayak width and foredeck volume, height of your seat, and other factors, including your posture and technique.

If your paddle-length is not optimal you will have to compensate with technique, and your posture may be negatively affected.  A good instructor can observe you and quickly determine if  your paddle length looks good and if your posture and technique are sound.

Tip – if you make your own paddle, consider making your first one with the length slightly longer than what you think is “ideal”, and make the loom (paddle shaft) slightly shorter than what you think is “ideal”. This gives you room to experiment. After using the paddle, you can modify it as needed — by taking off some of the length or making the loom longer.  It’s easy to remove wood but not so easy to put it back on!

For additional information please see the sizing information that I posted at Qajaq USA.